HSF#17: Yellow

This was a surprisingly difficult challenge considering the fact that I love yellow! Originally, I did have a yellow UFO that I was saving for this challenge but I decided it was a wadder. I had so many Elizabethan projects to do before the end of the faire that I didn't think I'd have any time to do anything.

But then the weekend before faire, I decided that I needed a new petticoat since I turned my last one into a bodied petticoat.

So I scurried off to Jo-Anns for some linen. Originally, I was eying some lovely green linen rayon but then I spied this golden yellow color and I knew it was meant to be!

The Challenge: Yellow
Fabric: 3 yds linen/rayon
Pattern: none-it's just a rectangle pleated to a waistband
Year: late 1500s
Notions: thread, hook and eye
How historically accurate is it? the rayon part not so much, but otherwise pretty good.
Hours to complete: 3 hrs
First worn: September 2014 to the renaissance festival
Total cost: ~$20

Now, you may have noticed that I'm wearing the petticoat on the outside, which is definitely not where it is supposed to be.

Originally, I was wearing it under my bodied petticoat but the bulk of the waistband was too uncomfortable so I decided to layer it on top.

So really, I'm missing a lot of layers in this outfit but it's faire and I was still one of the most historically accurate people there.

And maybe next time I will wear it as an actual petticoat!

Opening Day

It's faire season again! Huzzah! This past Saturday was opening day so we suited up and went out to enjoy the festival day!

Now, I don't normally go in costume if it's going to be 90+ but we're on staff this year so I did. (Plus I was really excited and wanted to wear all the pretty things!) We didn't get a lot of pictures of me on account of the fact that we're actually there to take pictures of other things but never fear! Monday had more photo opportunities!

We got to catch some of our favorite performers including the Wenches A'Wailing. There are always a lot of great shows on on the smaller stages. The pub is a must see for anyone who enjoys a beer with their turkey leg! Most of the acts add in a drinking song and there are toasts all around.

Her majesty was in fine form as always! We didn't see too much of the court since opening weekend is always a bit crazy and busy. But we did get to do lots of window shopping. I decided a head of time not to buy anything opening weekend because it's so easy to go shopping crazy but I did spy some lovelies I'm going to have to go back for!

I was pleasantly surprised how well I did in all of that heat! The key is hydration and electrolytes! The first year I went in costume, I almost passed out since I didn't want to pay for bottled water. Bad idea! If you are going on a hot day, plan on buying loads of water. (Or carry around your own).

I'm so excited for the rest of the season! I still have a few costumes I'd like to finish before the end of the season so we'll see how that goes. Don't forget to drop me a line at girlwiththestarspangledheart@gmail.com if you'd like to do a meet up at the faire!

HSF#15: The Great Outdoors

This Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge was all about outdoorsy activities-hiking, swimming, and playing all varieties of lady like sports. All things I don't care for. So this one was quite a challenge just to think of something to do for the challenge!

Since my idea of a good outdoor event is being warm and bored, I thought I'd make some outer wear. I've wanted to make a fitted English gown for quite some time and I had already stashed some wool for the project so I got to work.

This was my first time using a pattern drafted from the Tudor Tailor. It was actually easier than I thought it would be. The fitting was a bit different because I don't usually sew for over a corseted figure so I couldn't use my standby alterations. In the end, I'm quite happy with the fit.

The Challenge: The Great Outdoors
Fabric: 3.5 yds wool ($7), 2 yds black linen ($16), 1 yd orange linen ($5), 2/3 yd black silk cotton (free-left overs), 3/4 yd cotton velvet ($6)
Pattern: Fitted English Gown from the Tudor Tailor
Year: mid to late 1500s
Notions: hooks and eyes ($2)
How historically accurate is it? I feel like I did really well on the fabric with the linen and wool. The velvet wouldn't have been cotton in period and there shouldn't be any cotton in my silk but it was a leftover piece from another project that I thought would look smashing on the inside of the collar. I followed the construction suggested by the Tudor Tailor but I did machine sew most of it. Their construction method wouldn't work with the hand sewing method I'm familiar with so I decided to play it safe and machine sew the first one.
Hours to complete: heaps and heaps
First worn: Just for pictures but I will be wearing it to the Ohio Renaissance Festival which is technically outside....
Total cost: $36 (woot woot! I got some amazing deals on fabric for this project!)

 This is the first time I've ever come close to wearing the period appropriate number of layers. It's definitely a lot! I could still use another petticoat and maybe a hat but other than that, I'm looking good.

We did have to take these photos early in the morning when it was chilly, but even inside it wasn't as hot as I expected it to be with all of those layers and wool. All the same, I'm hoping for a chilly faire season so I can wear this a lot!

Also making their costuming debut are my American Duchess Stratfords. So pretty! :D It's amazing how much of a difference proper footwear makes to any look whether historical or vintage.

My favorite part of this outfit is probably the decorated pocket slits. Since I did black velvet on navy blue wool, they don't show up to well in the photo but you can see them in the Lucas de Heere sketch c. 1570 on the lady on the left.

I got to wear a lot of previous challenge items with this outfit- bodied petticoat (#12 shape and support),  apron (#13 under $10), and the sleeves (#18 from 2013 remake, reuse and refashion).

Silly photo time! :D

Costuming Progress!

With just under a month until Renaissance Festival season starts, I've been trying to get things finished. I've had several grand ideas for projects but now I'm getting down to the wire and prioritizing.

Italian Striped Gown

I'm working on my first non-English gown inspired mainly by the stripey dresses in this two portraits.

Antoni Faslol: Paola Gualdo and Daughters (1560s) and Sofanisba Anguissola: Three Siblings with Dog (1590)

So far, I've completed the bodice and attached the skirt.

I decided on side back lacing so there were gobs of eyelets!

I used quite a fun fabric to line the bodice. I'm not sure on trim or sleeve style yet but I'm working on it.

Elizabethan Court Gown

After the big makeover in January, this dress stilled needed to be trimmed!

I've trimmed the neckline with green cotton velvet and a gold lace trim.

The same trim goes down the center front opening of the skirt and around the bottom of the skirt.

I'm not sure how I'm going to trim the sleeves. I still have to remove the old trim but I'm not quite sure what to do.

Fitted English Gown

I've finished up my fitted English gown! Woot! It's made of blue wool and trimmed in velvet.

The bodice is lined in silk/cotton blend and the skirt in black and orange linen.

It has these great pocket slits!

And to go with a pocket slit, a pocket! Pockets like this were quite popular in the 18th century but there is evidence of them in 16th century Italy. And I think they are rather practical.

And I also got a pair of American Duchess Stratfords! *Swoon*

I can't wait to wear them!!

HSF#13: Under $10

This Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge was to make something that cost less than $10. So I tried to think up something small and stash busting for my Renaissance costume that I could whip up for less than $10.

The Challenge: Under $10
Fabric: 0.5 yds cotton lawn ($5/yd)
Pattern: self-drafted
Year: it could work for quite a few eras but I'll be wearing it for 16th century
Notions: thread ($0.50)
How historically accurate is it? It should really be linen. But I did hand sew the whole thing. It's the first thing I've ever entirely hand sewed so that's an accomplishment.
Hours to complete: quite a few (4-5)
First worn: not yet
Total cost: $3

In other costuming news, I've been working on trimming my court dress. Right now I'm adding green velvet trim. I'm still pondering other ideas for trim but progress is being made. 

I've also been working on my Italian dress. I made a dent in the eyelets but there are more to go!!

But my eyelets are looking nicer so I must be getting better at them.

HSF#12: Shape and Support

This week's Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge was all about changing the shape of the human body.

I decided to make a 16th century bodied petticoat to wear in lieu of a corset. I do have a nice wool one but sometimes it's just to hot for wool!

The Challenge: Shape and Support
Fabric: Cotton duck for the inner layer, linen rayon blend for the bodice outside and skirt, cotton for the bodice lining, poly felt for the skirt hem support
Pattern: self drafted
Year: mid/late 16th century
Notions: ribbon for lacing, 6 steel bones
How historically accurate is it? well, the materials are iffy but it gives a nice shape
Hours to complete: eep, did not keep track
First worn: not yet
Total cost: ~$20 (I reused an old petticoat for the skirt and the lining and felt were left overs from other projects)

 One thing I wanted to try with this project was hem stiffening. I was inspired by these two articles on stiffened hems (1) (2). Now, I didn't get quite as amazing results as these ladies did but I can tell it makes a difference!

 The skirt I used was too long so I sandwiched 3" of felt between the hem allowance and the skirt. It actually gives a nice shape for a lower/middle class. I have high hopes for trying it in a less drapey material such as taffeta!

As far as the bodice shaping, I did the same 6 bone layout as in my grey wool kirtle. There is some slight curvature in the bust but it still does a great job and you won't be able to tell under another layer. Plus it's so much more comfortable with out all the extra boning I'd need to get a perfectly flat bust.

This piece was designed to be an undergarment, but now that I see it with my chemise from challenge #9, it looks very cute and generic peasant-y. The skirt does gape in the front so I'll need an apron or something but I'm getting excited!

16th Century Sewing Plans (Again)

I've been tweaking my historical costuming plans again. With the Renaissance Festival fast approaching, I know I need to prioritize and plan so I can get stuff done.


I wanted to make some sort of outerwear and I've decided on a linen jacket like this:

There's a pattern in the Tudor Tailor that looks really great for this sort of jacket. Plus layers are great for all day events.

I also really want to make an apron. Since I hate blackwork, I think I'll try some lace insertion.

See pretty lace work aprons!! (source: left, right by Jennifer Kluska)

I also have this great striped fabric that I bought ages ago for that Simplicity pattern. Now that I know better I want to make something more historically accurate. Thankfully, the fabric is a lighter weight than I remember and there's more of it than I remember so I'm going to make a dress!

The Italians did wear stripy garments like these two girls. (Giovanni Antonio Fasolol, c. 1560s: Paola Gualdo and Daughters)

And look at those great sleeves!

I also really like these dresses! ("Three Children with Dog" by Sofonisba Anguissola c. 1590)

Lily of Mode de Lis did a fabulous recreation based on this portrait.

I won't be doing a recreation of any particular portrait but borrowing details from different ones to make my own dress. The first part of this project will be to make a bodied petticoat to wear under the dress. I could use my wool kirtle but I want something lighter to wear on warmer days. (And in Florida!)

Eeep! I'm super excited for faire season!