IRRC6: Update 1

It's time for an Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge 6 update! It's just past the one month mark so far.

I decided to start on the petticoat first to test out a new cutting layout and new hand sewing techniques. Usually, I just pleat 3 yds or so of fabric to a waistband but I tried a pattern with gores and I rather like the effect. I also decided to handsew the entire petticoat. I used a running stitch for the long seams and hand finished them by trimming one side, folding the longer side over top of it and slip stitching it down.

 I then knife pleated the skirt to the waistband and attached with a backstitch. I still need to hem it but I’m going to wait until the gown is done so I know what length to hem it. I was pleasantly surprised at how fast it stitched up but I haven’t decided how much of the rest of my ensemble I want to hand stitch.

Next, I started work on the gown. I used an existing bodice pattern from an English gown and shortened it to get the raised waistline I wanted. For the inner layer of the bodice, I used some cotton canvas. I used six steel bones on the bodice front for a bit of extra support.

I then cut the outer layer, folded the seam allowance over and catch stitched it down. Then I cut the lining fabric (some linen cotton from my stash), folded the seam allowance down and slip stitched it down. Next up is sewing it all together and then eyelets.

Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge 6

I've been an avid follower of the Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge (IRCC) for several years and have decided that this is finally the year to enter it! I'm strongly considering making my Adrian persona Italian because Italian garb is so pretty (and because picking a late period English name would be rather boring). So I do need some more Italian outfits.

I really love the high waisted look of 1490s styles like those who inspired the fashions on Ever After and The Borgias. And I've got a bit of cold feet at cutting into my silk for my Borgia dress in an untested pattern. I'm hoping that this project will help me get some kinks out of the dress pattern before cutting into my pricy silk.

My first layer will be a camica or Italian chemise. I've already made one for my Borgia dress but one can never have too many pairs of underthings for costuming. The second layer will consist of a gamurra or gown which will be front laced with a pleated skirt.

The third layer will be a giornea which is a pretty draped over dress that is open at the sides like this lady is wearing. I'm hoping this will be a nice easy layer to throw on to make my outfit look pretty pretty for events such as court during Adria but that can be left off for most of the day when it's just too hot for that.

Lastly will be accessories. I'm planning on making some jewelry and another pocket ( because pockets rock). Italians also have such pretty jewelry! If I have extra time at the end and I'm feeling ambitions, I may throw in a few extra accessories but who knows.

Once the challenge begins on April 14th, I'll be sending in monthly updates which I'll also share here. Now off to do some fabric shopping!

Historical Sew Monthly #3: Protection

So I went on my very first costuming camping trip! It was definitely a kiddy pool level event since it was about 20 minutes from our home (which was great because Rachel bird was sick and needed injections twice a day) and we used modern camping stuff. But there was costuming!

I decided to rock an Italian look for Saturday. This decision was mostly so I could wear my only historical make of 2015-an Italian chemise (or camica as they would have called it). And I whipped up a quick project just for camping that just so happened to fit in with this month's Historical Sew Monthly challenge!

The challenge was "protection" and I made one of the most basic types of protection items-an apron. Way to be boring, I know. But I did want a really functioning apron and not just a pretty Sunday best apron with all of the camping and nature and stuff. (Yeah... see my Great Outdoors entry)

So I scrounged up about a yard of blue wool and quickly hand sewed this little apron right before the event. Wool is a great choice for an apron because it has a bit of a water repelling quality (great for spills) and will smolder and put itself out if caught on fire rather than just burning like linen (although we didn't actually cook anything over a fire).

The Challenge: Protection
Fabric: about a yard of blue wool left over from another project. I think this was one that I got on the cheap so $6ish
Pattern: it's a rectangle gathered to a rectangle
Year: mid to late 1500s (although it could be worn in a lot of periods)
Notions: thread
How historically accurate is it? I have to admit that I didn't do a lot of research on pattern here but it does look like the pictures from the period. Wool is a great fabric for a working apron and dark colors are great for hiding stains. 
Hours to complete: 4ish
First worn: Adrian Empire camping trip and colleguim
Total cost: $6

 I rocked my American Duchess Stratfords. Yet again, they performed marvelously proving themselves to be not just another pretty pair of shoes but quite well suited for actually wearing and trudging through nature.

I also got the opportunity to wear my pocket on the outside of my gown since it is Italian too! So so handy! Usually, I hide it between my petticoat and gown for English looks since it's so handy to have.

My hair is most assuredly NOT long enough to do Italian looks but a hair piece and a snood do wonders for making a period appropriate looking (even if not quite accurate) hair do. Especially since the Florida sun has lightened my hair enough to match my hair piece.

The event itself was quite fun. There were classes all day Saturday so I got to learn a lot of cool stuff. There was also combat and an arts competition. I'm very excited to get to do arts competitions and show off all of my pretties.

 Plus some of the ladies are trying to organize a sewing night so that will be so fun! Yay for hanging out with other nerds!

Overall, we had a very fun time and I can't wait for the next event!

Camping is coming!

Way back in January 2015, I blogged excitedly about the potential for period camping trips. After dabbling in the SCA in Ohio, I was ready to dive right into new and exciting costuming opportunities in Florida. Well, it's been over a year but I'm finally getting to go on my first period camping trip this weekend! Huzzah!

Can't wait to be more than just a Ren Faire girl!

And even more exciting, the hubby is on board for joining in on the fun which means I get to make menswear! Yay! :D I'm so excited to get back into costuming. I have so many lovely things that I don't get to wear very often plus you can never have too many new dresses.

One of the new things I'll have to take into consideration when costuming is that pretty much all of our events will be outdoors in summer type weather. Bring on the linen! While it's not very exciting, my first project for me will need to be more linen shifts. I do have some nice cotton ones but Florida summers are going to require linen.

 1160-1180, England

As for my man, I'm deep in the researching phase. He's not at all interested in Elizabethan (too frufru) so I'm digging way back and looking at 12th century menswear while he's starting at the other end and looking at armor. Hopefully, we can meet in the middle with a time period he likes both the armor and everyday clothing for.

Yumminess! (Portia and Brutus 1486-90)

Meanwhile for me, I'm dreaming of 1490s Italian loveliness! I still have my Borgia dress to finish plus I'd love a more working class version because it's so pretty!

HSM August: Heirlooms and Heritage

I am finally back on my costuming game! Between the super hot weather and not having any costuming events coming up, I haven't really been much in the mood for costumes. But I decided to just go for it anyways.

The August challenge is Heirlooms and Heritage. You could make something that your ancestors might have worn or make something using heirloom techniques. So I decided to make a 1920s dress in honor of my great-grandma Elizabeth and her aunts.

My great-grandma (the one not facing the camera) and her aunts on a picnic in the 1920s.

I've always been nervous to do anything 1920s because the ideal silhouette is exactly opposite mine. But I thought this would be a great time to try it out. I didn't have a specific event to wear the dress to so if it was a wash, no big deal.

The Challenge: Heirlooms and Heritage 

Fabric: ~3 yds quilting cotton ($7/yd)

Pattern: Festive Attyre's 1 Hour Dress Lawn Party Edition- Since I've made a corset pattern she also posted for free online, I know that I'm a bit smaller than her so instead of adding seam allowance to the pattern, I just used it as if it already had a 1/2" seam allowance. It worked pretty well though I did shape the side seams just a bit for a slightly more flattering shape. I ended up making the narrowest part to my exact bust measurement to make sure I could still get in and out of the dress. I made 6 knife pleats on each side and also added piping at the waist, neckline and sleeves for a bit of pop.

Year: most 1 hour dress pattern's I've seen have been 1924/1925 and that seems to match what I've seen in extant dresses and ads from the period

Notions: piping ($5)

How historically accurate is it? The quilting cotton is not the correct type of fabric to use for this sort of dress. It would really be better with something more light weight and drapey. I also used my serger to finish the seams which would not have been available for home seamstresses at this point. The pattern itself is drafted from period directions so it's good there.

Hours to complete: more than 1! I did run into some issues (having to run to JoAnn's, breaking a needle on my serger and then having to rethread it) but it's definitely a pretty short project. I know I'd be much faster sewing it up the second time around.

First worn: to church and then for photos on the beach

Total cost: ~$26

To style this dress, I added some vintage crochet gloves and a long pearl necklace. I was going to wear my American Duchess 23Skiddos but changed my mind after we decided to do the shoot on the beach. Maybe next time!

My hair didn't really cooperate with the wind on the beach though. I definitely need a cute white hat for this dress. Guess I need to go hat shopping!

It might be a bit overdressed to go to the beach but I couldn't resist a bit of wading. I pretended I was with the staff at Downton Abbey when they all went to the beach!

 I'm still not 100% sure about how I feel about the shape of this dress on me. It definitely doesn't do my actual waist any favors. On the up side, it's ridiculously comfortable. It'd be perfect for a day of classes at Costume College (especially Sunday when you're super tired). I think I'll try again in a more drapey fabric. It should fall closer to the body and be more flattering.

 But I did really adore this print and don't feel bad about caving into quilting cottons. And there is nothing that makes me quite as happy as wearing bright, cheery fabric!