Lips as red as rose

Do you ever have one of those projects that just fights you? Well, one happened to me recently. The dress you are about to see actually has appeared on this blog before but in a slightly different version.

I had grand visions of a fabulous 50s shirtwaist dress when I first spied this lovely rose print cotton swiss dot. It's part of Gertie's fabric line. So some yardage came home with me and I started plotting.

Originally, I opted for the bodice from Simplicity 2851 but I swapped out the late 40s skirt for a pleated fuller 50s style one. I loved the sweet collar and easy cut on sleeves.

But the waist came out too big. I did have this great wide red belt that I could have used to make it work but I do like flexibility in my wardrobe. Plus I didn't like the lack of mobility from the cut on sleeves. And then I messed up the position of the button holes so they weren't centered properly.

Thankfully, I had over a yard of extra fabric left and I could squeeze out a new bodice. My next try was Butterick 8078 which I'd made twice before. (1) (2)

It's got a great collar design! And then all I had to do was convert the 3/4 length sleeve into a short sleeve. And that's where things went wrong again. I tried a narrow shoulder adjustment and it didn't work out. Whoops!

I fretted for a few days and then just decided to scrap the sleeves and make it a sleeveless dress. I live in Florida now and sleeveless dresses are perfect for summer.

I'm so happy to have been able to use some of these cute vintage glitter buttons. So pretty! I wanted something pretty enough for this dress but that wouldn't compete with the fabric. These were the winners. Plus I have four more that I'll be saving for future project.

I also copied the opening style from a vintage dress. The skirt closes in the center front but it's hidden in the pleats. The pleats over lap enough so that the opening stays closed.

To play up the great vintage buttons, I accessorized with a vintage crystal necklace that belonged to my husband's grandmother. I love sparkly things!

So even though this was a trial and error project, I'm so happy that I pushed through and finished it. Yay for pretty new dresses!

When Sewing and Acronyms Meet

Rochelle of Lucky Lucille is hosting a summer sew along! It's the Vintage Inspired Four Piece Mini Capsule Wardrobe challenge or VIFPMCW for short. The idea is to create set of mix and match pieces for summer-two tops and two bottoms. I was on the fence about joining in but then I spied the most fabulous fabric at JoAnns and now I'm in.

A lovely tropical print shirting and some coordinating red shirting. Yummy!

I'm planning on making a skirt from Butterick 6309 and also a blouse from this fabric but not sure what pattern for that one.

I'll be making a blouse from Simplicity 3144 in this red shirting. For my second pair of bottoms, I'll be using my red capris that I already have.

In other sewing news, I also picked up some yummy yellow eyelet and some white cotton to line it but I haven't decided what to sew with it! A 40s day dress? A 50s shirt waist dress? A 40s summer suit? A 50s two piece dress? Let me know what you think. I have about 4 yds.

By the Sea

I adore the beach! And having moved from a landlocked corner of the midwest, I was quite lacking in the beachwear department. So way back in January, I started a pair of beach pyjamas.

Beach pyjamas were popular in the 1930s. They were worn for beach wear and also for lounging. They feature wide legs and could be one or two piece sets.

I had previously made a lounging version that was very fun to wear around the house. Unfortunately, they are made of polyester and not so great for hot days at the beach.

For this version, I knew linen was the way to go! Breathable, drapey and easy to care for. I found a great striped linen and some coordinating green linen that were oh so yummy!

The pattern is Wearing History's Lounging at the Lido pattern.  I've previously done a pattern review so you can pop over if you're interested in making up this pattern. But, really, they aren't too difficult to sew up and the belt at the waist means that they don't have to be perfectly fitted. You do have to know how to use bias binding as a facing and how to do button holes. And the pants have a huge hem because they are fabulous and full but it's worth it.

For this version, I decided to do a color blocked version instead of all one color with contrasting ties and collar. There's no yardage given for this type of fabric combination. I ended up using about 1 yd for the bodice and about 2.5 yds for the pants, collar and ties. Both were 60 inch wide fabrics.

And this weekend, I finally got a chance to take pictures of me wearing my beach pyjamas at the beach. And look! I match the sea grass.

My church does beach baptisms during the summer and this is wear I wore these. Since I had no plans to actually go in the water, it was perfect. I don't recommend beach pjs for swimming. All of that fabric in the pants would make it difficult to swim.

I did get to dip my feet in the water. One of the nice things about linen is that it dries quickly especially in the warm Florida summer sun.

I got heaps and heaps of compliments while wearing this! I was a bit surprised. Beach pjs are definitely one of the odder vintage fashions and it's always a bit scary when you wear something particularly different for the first time.

 Guess I was worried for nothing. I had several ladies ask me where I got them. Perhaps I need a few more pairs of these beach pjs.

Summer Sewing Plans

I'm already thinking of summer sewing! While I've been on a 40s kick pretty much all of 2015 so far, the warmer weather has brought out my 50s side! Or maybe it's just the bob hair cut. Either way, I'm planning some cute midcentury additions to my wardrobe this summer.

I'm in desperate need of some new shorts! I have one pair of rtw shorts but the two pair of me made shorts need to be replaced. One pair is too big and the other is getting kind of sad looking. So I'll be making a new pair of high waisted sorts from this Wearing History pattern.

My wardrobe is in desperate need of a basic black blouse so I'm going to make one from this pattern. I also need to replace my basic white blouse. The one I have wrinkles if you even look at it so I hardly ever wear it.

I also want to make at least one dress. I've got my eye on this pattern from the stash. I just adore the pockets and it looks easy and comfortable for summer. Also, love their hair!

I've also had to retire one of my circle skirts so I think I may replace it as well. I adore a great basic.

What are you planning on sewing for your summer wardrobe?

Sewing here and there

I've been doing some small sewing things lately. Nothing exciting enough for it's own post, but here they are.

 I made a garment bag. I have realized that I need to take better care of my costumes since I'm starting to have some really nice ones. So I had some muslin and cotton fabric and I whipped one up.

I also traced out a pattern for a new style of coif from the Tudor Tailor. I still need to make a muslin of it to make sure it fits and then I'll be ready for HSM May.

 I've also been tackling a few things from the mending pile. I've lost some weight since moving to Florida so a lot of the waist bands on my skirts need to be taken in. I hate wearing clothes that are too big!

And I've been thinking about summer sewing. I got these two lovely linen and cotton blend fabrics. The green is destined to be a pair of high waisted sorts and the black is for a blouse.

HSM March: Stashbusting

Yet another Historical Sew Monthly project complete! This one is actually March's challenge of stash busting. I did actually get this done in March but I made it to wear for Easter so no photos until now.

The Challenge: Stash Busting-make something completely from stash materials.

Fabric: less than 2 yds of linen

How long in stash: I purchased this fabric in January to make my 1930s beach pjs (which are finished but not photographed). I wanted to do a color blocked version so I erred on the side of too much rather than too little fabric. I had almost two yards so I decided to try and squeeze a dress out of it. It took a bit of creative cutting layout kung fu but I did it.

Pattern: Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress

Year: It's based off of a 1942 Hollywood pattern

Notions: zipper and thread from stash

How historically accurate is it?  It's very historically accurate. I did use polyester thread and used my serger to finish my seams. I also left of the shoulder pads.

Hours to complete: 5 hrs

First worn: to church for Easter service

Total cost: free since everything was purchased and leftover from an old project.

 This is actually the second time I've made up this dress. The first I made up way back in 2011 as part of Elegant Musing's Swing Dress Sew Along. I'd been sewing less than a year and it didn't turn out that great. But I've learned a lot since then and I though that this pattern deserved a second chance.

I probably should have made a muslin but I decided to wing it. I needed a quick project to sew up so I just went for it. 

There were a few issues that I ran into. Again, I had some bunching where the gathers hit the waist band but I was prepared for that and fit as I was sewing it up. Also, the facing on the bodice and the facing on the back neck didn't line up for me. I made it work but the neckline ended up a bit lower than I wanted.

I've seen several versions of this dress where ladies have used a brooch to hold the neckline closed a bit higher so I might try that next time. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the fit. 

I added to the outfit my 40s Fashion Calendar brooch and my Lady Mary's Garden Party hat.

I love that the background of this brooch matches the color of this dress so well. It makes the whole thing a little bit less bold for someone like me who is still learning how to wear brooches.

 For Easter, I knew that I wanted to wear a hat of some kind. Unfortunately, none of my green hats were quite the right shade to go with this dress. And quite a few of my hats just don't work with straight hair. My hubby suggested that I wear this hat and it was a great idea.

 Floral hats are always great for Easter and spring! This outfit was so much fun to wear.

Did you make anything special for Easter this year?

HSM April: War and Peace

I have been sewing! It's been slow going in the sewing arena but I did get some stuff done! This project happened to fall into the April Historical Sew Monthly challenge of War and Peace.

Finally, my 1940s suit is done! The skirt is the one I made from Simplicity 1659 back in January and the jacket that I just finished is from Simplicity 4013. You can see both patterns in this post.

The Challenge: War and Peace- Make something that shows the effects of war or extended peace.

Fabric: 2 yds linen

Pattern: Simplicity 4013 c. 1939

Year: 1939

Notions: vintage buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it?  It's very historically accurate. I did use polyester thread and used my serger to finish my seams but other than that it's all good. 

Hours to complete: 3-4 hrs

First worn: to church

Total cost: ~$16

I made it up in a yummy red linen. I adore linen! It's yummy to wear and sew with if a bit wrinkly. Linen rayon blends are also great for vintage projects.

Since the jacket was made of linen, I didn't need to do any kind of fancy tailoring. It's more like a blouse that looks like a jacket rather than an actual jacket. You might even call this type of outfit a two piece dress.

I had a hard time deciding on buttons for this suit. Metal buttons would be severely rationed during WWII. A lot of vintage suits from this era have self fabric buttons but I didn't want to go through the hassle of making them. Mine never turn out that great anyways. I didn't have any red buttons in my stash but I found these great white ones instead.

I really wanted to wear a brooch with this suit but I couldn't figure out which one to wear with this suit. I'm horrible with brooch placement. Plus we were running late so I just grabbed these great crochet gloves.

And add a great hat for a great outfit! This is one of my favorite hats. The flowers are so cute! It looks great with pin curled hair but I also like how it looks with my bob.

This outfit made me remember what I really love about 40s fashion. The classic, tailored shape is fabulous and chic but also so practical. Plus, I finally have a 40s suit! Oh, the mixing and matching possibilities!

To round out the outfit, it's my Remix shoes! They don't necessarily match but they go. And why not wear fabulous shoes!

Do you have a vintage suit?