What's Next

I know that I have been very absent and sporadic on the blog over the last few months! Sorry for that! Life has been pretty crazy and busy and this blog just hasn't been a priority. I have been focusing more on my youtube channel and also working on a behind the scenes project. And it's finally time to reveal that project!

I have started a new blog! For a while now, I've been sort of feeling like not myself in vintage. This summer, I decided to do an all modern Project 333 to see how I felt about not wearing vintage on an everyday basis and I haven't worn any vintage since. So this is my goodbye post from this blog.

I'm going to leave this blog up as a resource for you all and a digital scrapbook for myself and I'll be shutting down The Girl with the Star-Spangled Heart Facebook page as well.

I really appreciate all of your support and comments over the years! I know you won't all be interested in the content on my new blog, but you can still connect with me on social media.

Youtube: Stephanie Lynn

Pinterest: Stephanie Lynn

Instagram: @stephandless

Up on Steph and Less today is an open letter to vintage explaining a bit more about my decision to quit wearing vintage.

Thanks again for everything!

IRCC: Final Update

I made it! The results are still not in yet but I'm super excited with the amount of things I finished in the last four months.

Layer 1: Camicia

Made from 100% linen mostly by machine. The sleeve and bottom hems were sewn by hand. The seams were finished by serging so I can wash it by machine.

Extra layer: Petticoat

Made from 100% linen entirely handsewn a combination of backstitch, running stitch and slip stich. The seams were flat felled. I used a gored pattern instead of my usual rectangular one and it definitely gave the skirt a nice swoosh.

Layer 2: Gamurra

Made from 100% linen and a cotton canvas interlining for the bodice. This layer is mostly handsewn including the eyelets. The outer fabric and lining of the bodice were sewn to the interlining by hand. Both the bodice and skirt were assembled by hand. The skirt was hemmed and sewn to the bodice by hand. The sleeves were constructed entirely by hand. The only steps that were completed on the machine are the boning channels and assembling and attaching the skirt facing. It is lightly boned with 6 steel bones.

I have to say that while the slitted sleeves with camicia poofs looks very pretty, they are a pain to get on and get situated. Next time, I’d definitely pleat the camicia sleeve to a band or make one with a slim sleeve and add faux poofs to the dress sleeves.

Layer 3: Giornea

Made from a cotton blend mostly by machine. Some of the seam finishes were done by hand.

Layer 4: Accessories

The pocket is made from 100% wool and some poly velvet ribbon from my stash. This piece was constructed by machine. The trim and velvet ties were attached by hand.

The earrings were made from faux pearls and some jewelry making bits.

 The pearl necklace is made from the same faux pearls and was hand knotted.

Overall, I’m very pleased with how this challenge turned out! Completing this challenge has been on my costuming bucket list and it feels amazing to have completed it. I’m glad I pushed myself to do more handsewing in the beginning of the challenge. I really do love the look and feel of handsewn pieces even if I don’t have the time or energy to do them all the time. I was able to try some new things including jewelry making and I’m very inspired to try some drawn threadwork after seeing quite a few other entrants use this technique.

Now I just have to wait for it to be cool enough to wear this whole ensemble to an event!

IRCC6: Update #4

There were quite a few loose ends to wrap up this month. First up, I need to finish the sleeves on my camicia. A quick hand stitched hem did the trick. It pretty much looks the same as my last photo except it is hemmed.

Next up, I buckled down to finish my giornea. Getting an even hem turned out to be a bit difficult without a dress form or hemming buddy! I also ran out of matching bias tape so I finished the hem with a bit of black bias tape from the stash. To finish it off, I added a hook and eye closure to the bottom of the v neck to keep the front closed. It also looks very similar to the last update.

After going back and forth on sleeve design for a bit, I decided on a one piece sleeve that had a slit up the arm from the wrist to elbow. I really wanted that poofy camicia peaking out look and I thought this design would be do able to draft from my existing sleeve pattern.

I ended up making a 3 inch opening for the slit that narrowed to a point at the elbow. I decided to sew down both ends of the ribbon rather than opting for loose ties that could be done up in bows. Bows are a bit fiddly for my taste and my husband hates having to tie up a bunch of bows for me.

I made up the sleeves very similar to the way I made the bodice except they did not need an inner foundation layer. I handstitched the layers together and attached the ribbons to the lining layer. Then I whipstiched the back seam closed from shoulder to elbow. The sleeves are entirely hand sewn and I will be attaching them with pins. Since the climate I live in is quite warm for most of the year, I’ll be wearing the dress without sleeves most of the time so pin on sleeves work really well for me.

That left me with just accessories to finish. I really wanted to take a stab at making my own jewelry. I’d never made jewelry before but Italians sure have some great jewelry! I had a bunch of faux pearls in my stash so I decided to make pearl earrings and a necklace.

Most of the portraits from the 1490s show a hairstyle that covers the ear but simple pearl drop earrings were popular throughout the Italian Renaissance so I figured I couldn’t go wrong with those. Plus I don’t have long enough hair to do the cover the ear style. I picked up a few bits to make the earrings plus some jewelry pliers and got started.

It was so easy to make these earrings! And they turned out so pretty that I may just have to wear them with my everyday wardrobe too.

I also wanted to make a matching pearl necklace. I have other pearl necklaces already but none that quite matched the color of the pearl earrings. I wanted to hand knot the necklace because I thought it’d add to the authentic feel even though I’m using faux pearls. There’s definitely a bit of technique getting the knots to cooperate and turn out nicely but it was pretty easy to finish while watching tv. Then I added a toggle clasp to finish it off.

If I were going to Costume College

It's Costume College week! Costume College is a 3 day costuming convention held annually in California. I've been twice and it is amazing! I'm really bummed not to be going this year but maybe next year. Since I won't be joining my friends in the costuming festivities, I thought I'd day dream about what I would bring instead.

Thursday evening pool party

I'd go pool side in my 19-teens nautical ensemble. It's quite comfortable to wear which is a must after a day of travel.

Friday Classes

I love wearing vintage during the day at Costume College since it looks great but is comfortable. Plenty of people wear regular clothes during the day but I like to dress up the whole time! A 1940s linen suit is chic and easy to wear.

Friday Ice Cream Social

What's more perfect for an ice cream social than a mint sundae dress? It's another effortless outfit that won't take up much space in my suitcase. When you're flying to Costume College, every extra inch counts!

Saturday Classes

I couldn't go to Costume College without one of my favorite costumes ever! My English fitted gown is made of wool and also has an under dress so it's quite warm. Yay for air conditioning!

Saturday Gala

I promised myself that my next Gala dress would be my Borgia dress, but since it is just a bodice and a whole pile of silk right now, I'd take my striped Italian gown for the Gala. It makes me feel so elegant. And it's also a great dress for air conditioning.

Sunday Classes

By the time Sunday rolls around, I'm always exhausted! And tired of wearing corsets. So my 1930s beach pjs would be perfect for the last day of classes.

If you'd like to see what I've actually worn to past Costume Colleges, check out all of the posts here.

IRCC Update #3

I feel like I was quite productive this month despite being rather busy with planning a move and trying to declutter before packing. Anyways, my first goal for this month was to finish my first accessory, a pocket. I ended up trimming it with some green velvet ribbon from my stash. I don’t know that green really goes with the rest of my outfit but as this will be worn under my gown, nobody is going to see it and I like green.

The ribbon was applied by hand after the main construction of the pocket was complete. It wasn’t until after I’d sewn and pressed my pocket that I bothered to look at my old pocket to see how I’d made that one. Last go around, I was smart and applied the trim before construction so the raw edges were finished nicely inside the seams. Oops! So I had to fold under the ends of the ribbon at the seam. It doesn’t look as nice but I guess that’s what I get for not paying enough attention!

I folded over the raw edges on the top of the pocket and hand sewed a length of ribbon over it to finish the edge and make a belt. And the pocket is done!

My next goal was to make my camica this month. Not going to lie, this was a part I was not that excited about making. I am not one of those people who loves making underthings and I’d just made a gorgeous linen camica last year and have barely worn it. But, really, you can never have too many sets of undergarments and I did already have a tutorial handy to follow. I used Festive Attyre’s camica tutorial.

I decided serge all of my seam allowances on the camica and do the bulk of the sewing by machine. I do a lot of outdoor events in the heat and love just being able to throw my under layers in the washing machine after an event.

Look! A gusset! If only my geometry teacher had made me do equations with camica pieces, I would have enjoyed math so much more.

The thing that I knew I wanted to change from my last camica was the neck band. It came out too wide and all twisty and lumpy. So I decided to make a very narrow neck band this go around. The neckline was machine gathered and then machine sewn to the neck band. I finished the inside of the neck band by hand.

So far, I have also hemmed the camica by hand. The only bit left to do is finish the sleeves. I haven’t decided whether to gather them to a wristband or to just hem it and leave it open. Once I make up my mind, it’ll be a quick finish.

I also started on my giornea. I used a tutorial by Cathelina di Alessandri to make this garment. I liked that it was simple geometric shapes that would be easy for me to draft and sew up. Since this garment is not that complicated, I’ve been able to finish the main construction by machine very quickly. I’ve decided not to line my giornea because it’s quite heavy already. This leaves me with a lot of edges to finish prettily since they can be seen while the garment is being worn.

The center front and center back edges are selvages so I’m just slipstitching them down by hand. The neckline, shoulder seams and outside edges, I’m finishing with bias tape made from leftover linen from my petticoat which is almost an exact match for the giornea fabric. The bias is sewn to the edge by machine and then folded over and slipstitched by hand to the inside of the garment.

Looking forward to the next (last!!) month, I need to finish my camica and giornea. I also realized this week that while I have fabric for sleeves, I haven’t really given much thought to the design of the sleeves. Definitely need to work on that! I also still want to do some sort of jewelry to go with this outfit. I’ve not made jewelry before but if I have time, I do want to take a stab at it.

Konmari Round 2: Sewing Patterns

Sorry for the radio silence! Life has been pretty busy lately between moving prep, sewing binges for the IRCC6 (more on that coming soon!) and general summer life busyness. But I have been doing some more Konmari! Today I'm sharing my sewing pattern Konmari round 2. (You guys have already seen a few of these in my sale posts. 1 & 2) Enjoy!

Illustrated Faith Devotional Kit Unboxing: July

I'm super excited about the next Illustrated Faith Devotional Kit! If you follow me on Instagram, you'll have seen me bust out a few of these supplies. Enjoy!

Pattern Palooza Part 2

Even more lovely patterns that need new homes!

1. Butterick 6041 Size 16 Bust 34 $8 plus shipping

 Who doesn't love a smart bolero? This pattern offers two collar options, three sleeve options and your choice of pockets or not.

2. Advance 5859 Size Medium Bust 31-33 $8 plus shipping

 This pattern is for the gal who loves outdoor adventures! Make this pattern up in wool, corduroy or even denim for all of your outdoor activities and camping this summer. Note: This is an unprinted pattern.

3. Simplicity 3468 Size 16 Bust 34 $10 plus shipping

This smart 1940s dress pattern is perfect for that girl who wants to look elegant even at home. The classic lines will make you look chic in both the more casual version or the one with the fabulous ruffles.

4. Simplicity 3938 Size 12 Bust 30 $10 plus shipping ****sold

 Yet another really fabulous early 40s pattern! This one features a dropped waist and really cute bow details! Note: This is an unprinted pattern.

5. Simplicity 4321 Size 14 Bust 32 $10 plus shipping

 Right now is the perfect time to sew up your very own playsuit! This one can be made up as a crop top with shorts or skirt OR a very cute day dress! Note: this is an unprinted pattern.

6. Simplicity 3144 Size 15 Bust 33 $10 plus shipping

 This blouse and skirt pattern can be made up as chic separates or in matching fabric to give the look of a dress. The sleeveless version is perfect for summer while the 3/4 length sleeves are perfect for spring and fall.

7. Simplicity 3997 Size 12 Bust 30 $10 plus shipping

This early 40s dress features great gathered details. Make it up in rayon with short sleeves for summer or a light weight wool with long sleeves for winter. Note: this is an unprinted pattern.

8. Simplicity 3977 Size 14 Bust 32 $10 plus shipping

 This pattern is the perfect blank canvas dress. Show off a great novelty print. Make it up in a solid to show of a really fun trim. The neckline is perfect for showing off a great necklace or novelty brooch.

9. Ann Adams 4814 Size 14 Bust 32 $10 plus shipping

 This Anne Adams patter is a really cute dirndl style dress. It also really reminds me of Renaissance costumes. Either way you choose to style it, you'll be cute!

10. Simplicity 1936 Size 18 Bust 36 $12 plus shipping ***sold

 What a cute 1930s pattern! It has really cute fluttery sleeves and is perfect for some really special buttons. Note: This is an unprinted pattern. This pattern is also missing several pieces from the shorts pattern: L shorts underlap, M shorts overlap, P front shorts belt, R back shorts belt. All of the pieces for the blouse and skirt are included. This is reflected in the price.

To purchase, please email me at girlwiththestarspangledheart[dot]gmail[dot]com. I still have several other patterns for sale. Thanks!