Historical Sew Monthly #3: Protection

So I went on my very first costuming camping trip! It was definitely a kiddy pool level event since it was about 20 minutes from our home (which was great because Rachel bird was sick and needed injections twice a day) and we used modern camping stuff. But there was costuming!

I decided to rock an Italian look for Saturday. This decision was mostly so I could wear my only historical make of 2015-an Italian chemise (or camica as they would have called it). And I whipped up a quick project just for camping that just so happened to fit in with this month's Historical Sew Monthly challenge!

The challenge was "protection" and I made one of the most basic types of protection items-an apron. Way to be boring, I know. But I did want a really functioning apron and not just a pretty Sunday best apron with all of the camping and nature and stuff. (Yeah... see my Great Outdoors entry)

So I scrounged up about a yard of blue wool and quickly hand sewed this little apron right before the event. Wool is a great choice for an apron because it has a bit of a water repelling quality (great for spills) and will smolder and put itself out if caught on fire rather than just burning like linen (although we didn't actually cook anything over a fire).

The Challenge: Protection
Fabric: about a yard of blue wool left over from another project. I think this was one that I got on the cheap so $6ish
Pattern: it's a rectangle gathered to a rectangle
Year: mid to late 1500s (although it could be worn in a lot of periods)
Notions: thread
How historically accurate is it? I have to admit that I didn't do a lot of research on pattern here but it does look like the pictures from the period. Wool is a great fabric for a working apron and dark colors are great for hiding stains. 
Hours to complete: 4ish
First worn: Adrian Empire camping trip and colleguim
Total cost: $6

 I rocked my American Duchess Stratfords. Yet again, they performed marvelously proving themselves to be not just another pretty pair of shoes but quite well suited for actually wearing and trudging through nature.

I also got the opportunity to wear my pocket on the outside of my gown since it is Italian too! So so handy! Usually, I hide it between my petticoat and gown for English looks since it's so handy to have.

My hair is most assuredly NOT long enough to do Italian looks but a hair piece and a snood do wonders for making a period appropriate looking (even if not quite accurate) hair do. Especially since the Florida sun has lightened my hair enough to match my hair piece.

The event itself was quite fun. There were classes all day Saturday so I got to learn a lot of cool stuff. There was also combat and an arts competition. I'm very excited to get to do arts competitions and show off all of my pretties.

 Plus some of the ladies are trying to organize a sewing night so that will be so fun! Yay for hanging out with other nerds!

Overall, we had a very fun time and I can't wait for the next event!

HSM August: Heirlooms and Heritage

I am finally back on my costuming game! Between the super hot weather and not having any costuming events coming up, I haven't really been much in the mood for costumes. But I decided to just go for it anyways.

The August challenge is Heirlooms and Heritage. You could make something that your ancestors might have worn or make something using heirloom techniques. So I decided to make a 1920s dress in honor of my great-grandma Elizabeth and her aunts.

My great-grandma (the one not facing the camera) and her aunts on a picnic in the 1920s.

I've always been nervous to do anything 1920s because the ideal silhouette is exactly opposite mine. But I thought this would be a great time to try it out. I didn't have a specific event to wear the dress to so if it was a wash, no big deal.

The Challenge: Heirlooms and Heritage 

Fabric: ~3 yds quilting cotton ($7/yd)

Pattern: Festive Attyre's 1 Hour Dress Lawn Party Edition- Since I've made a corset pattern she also posted for free online, I know that I'm a bit smaller than her so instead of adding seam allowance to the pattern, I just used it as if it already had a 1/2" seam allowance. It worked pretty well though I did shape the side seams just a bit for a slightly more flattering shape. I ended up making the narrowest part to my exact bust measurement to make sure I could still get in and out of the dress. I made 6 knife pleats on each side and also added piping at the waist, neckline and sleeves for a bit of pop.

Year: most 1 hour dress pattern's I've seen have been 1924/1925 and that seems to match what I've seen in extant dresses and ads from the period

Notions: piping ($5)

How historically accurate is it? The quilting cotton is not the correct type of fabric to use for this sort of dress. It would really be better with something more light weight and drapey. I also used my serger to finish the seams which would not have been available for home seamstresses at this point. The pattern itself is drafted from period directions so it's good there.

Hours to complete: more than 1! I did run into some issues (having to run to JoAnn's, breaking a needle on my serger and then having to rethread it) but it's definitely a pretty short project. I know I'd be much faster sewing it up the second time around.

First worn: to church and then for photos on the beach

Total cost: ~$26

To style this dress, I added some vintage crochet gloves and a long pearl necklace. I was going to wear my American Duchess 23Skiddos but changed my mind after we decided to do the shoot on the beach. Maybe next time!

My hair didn't really cooperate with the wind on the beach though. I definitely need a cute white hat for this dress. Guess I need to go hat shopping!

It might be a bit overdressed to go to the beach but I couldn't resist a bit of wading. I pretended I was with the staff at Downton Abbey when they all went to the beach!

 I'm still not 100% sure about how I feel about the shape of this dress on me. It definitely doesn't do my actual waist any favors. On the up side, it's ridiculously comfortable. It'd be perfect for a day of classes at Costume College (especially Sunday when you're super tired). I think I'll try again in a more drapey fabric. It should fall closer to the body and be more flattering.

 But I did really adore this print and don't feel bad about caving into quilting cottons. And there is nothing that makes me quite as happy as wearing bright, cheery fabric!

Historical Sew Monthly Planning

I really want to do all of the Historical Sew Monthly Challenges (even though I missed February's challenge of blue so I'll have to do that one for the re-do challenge) and life has finally calmed down enough that I can start planning out what I want to do for future challenges. I've already finished my April challenge so let's start with May.

May-Practicality

This challenge is all about making an everyday wear around the house type piece. I did a lot of work on my lower class Elizabethan wardrobe last year so I won't be doing anything big this time, just working on accessories. I really want to do some headwear for this challenge. I only have one proper coif/caul and it's made from an old sheet. I have some leftover linen from my Italian chemise that would be perfect for this.

Practical outfit with the sheet coif and sheet shift.

June- Out of your comfort zone

This is the time to try a period or technique that's brand new! I've decided to do an embroidery project for this one. I have done a bit of embroidery before but not really for a historical project. I have been practicing a bit of blackwork. If I get ambitious, I might try a coif but I haven't found a pattern I like yet. An apron or partlet is more likely.

July- Accessorize

After seeing Morgan Donner's Italian Renaissance dress with a veil, I've decided that I must have a veil! I'd love to do one in silk like her's but I have to do some research and see if the budget will stretch. Either way, this will be a simple, though fiddley project.

August- Heirlooms and Heritage

This project is to be inspired by something an ancestor wore or might have worn. I don't know a lot about my family history all though there has been some research done on my hubby's side of the family. This one will take some thought.

Photo of my great-grandma (the one not facing the camera) and her aunts. 

September-Color Challenge Brown

I have some yummy brown wool just waiting for an Elizabethan jacket. I may not feel like looking at wool in September in Florida but that's the plan so far.

October-Sewing Secrets

Make something with secret in it-a pocket, false front, mend, secret message or allegiance. I'm a member of an Elizabethan costuming group on Facebook whose members are called EC Bees so I want to make something bee related to show that I'm part of the group. I'm not sure what I want to do for this project but there will be bees on it!

November- Silver Screen

Oh, yes! A movie project! If my Borgia dress isn't done before this, that's what will be here. It's going in slow spurts so it might be November before it is done but if not, I'll probably do something vintage.

December- Re-Do

I need to re-do at least the blue challenge. Thankfully, blue is a good color on me! I'm thinking a kirtle or petticoat would be a good idea.

I'm sure some of these will change before then (especially those at the end of the year) but I've got some great projects to focus on!

HSM March: Stashbusting

Yet another Historical Sew Monthly project complete! This one is actually March's challenge of stash busting. I did actually get this done in March but I made it to wear for Easter so no photos until now.

The Challenge: Stash Busting-make something completely from stash materials.

Fabric: less than 2 yds of linen

How long in stash: I purchased this fabric in January to make my 1930s beach pjs (which are finished but not photographed). I wanted to do a color blocked version so I erred on the side of too much rather than too little fabric. I had almost two yards so I decided to try and squeeze a dress out of it. It took a bit of creative cutting layout kung fu but I did it.

Pattern: Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress

Year: It's based off of a 1942 Hollywood pattern

Notions: zipper and thread from stash

How historically accurate is it?  It's very historically accurate. I did use polyester thread and used my serger to finish my seams. I also left of the shoulder pads.

Hours to complete: 5 hrs

First worn: to church for Easter service

Total cost: free since everything was purchased and leftover from an old project.

 This is actually the second time I've made up this dress. The first I made up way back in 2011 as part of Elegant Musing's Swing Dress Sew Along. I'd been sewing less than a year and it didn't turn out that great. But I've learned a lot since then and I though that this pattern deserved a second chance.

I probably should have made a muslin but I decided to wing it. I needed a quick project to sew up so I just went for it. 

There were a few issues that I ran into. Again, I had some bunching where the gathers hit the waist band but I was prepared for that and fit as I was sewing it up. Also, the facing on the bodice and the facing on the back neck didn't line up for me. I made it work but the neckline ended up a bit lower than I wanted.

I've seen several versions of this dress where ladies have used a brooch to hold the neckline closed a bit higher so I might try that next time. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the fit. 

I added to the outfit my 40s Fashion Calendar brooch and my Lady Mary's Garden Party hat.

I love that the background of this brooch matches the color of this dress so well. It makes the whole thing a little bit less bold for someone like me who is still learning how to wear brooches.

 For Easter, I knew that I wanted to wear a hat of some kind. Unfortunately, none of my green hats were quite the right shade to go with this dress. And quite a few of my hats just don't work with straight hair. My hubby suggested that I wear this hat and it was a great idea.

 Floral hats are always great for Easter and spring! This outfit was so much fun to wear.

Did you make anything special for Easter this year?

HSM April: War and Peace

I have been sewing! It's been slow going in the sewing arena but I did get some stuff done! This project happened to fall into the April Historical Sew Monthly challenge of War and Peace.

Finally, my 1940s suit is done! The skirt is the one I made from Simplicity 1659 back in January and the jacket that I just finished is from Simplicity 4013. You can see both patterns in this post.

The Challenge: War and Peace- Make something that shows the effects of war or extended peace.

Fabric: 2 yds linen

Pattern: Simplicity 4013 c. 1939

Year: 1939

Notions: vintage buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it?  It's very historically accurate. I did use polyester thread and used my serger to finish my seams but other than that it's all good. 

Hours to complete: 3-4 hrs

First worn: to church

Total cost: ~$16

I made it up in a yummy red linen. I adore linen! It's yummy to wear and sew with if a bit wrinkly. Linen rayon blends are also great for vintage projects.

Since the jacket was made of linen, I didn't need to do any kind of fancy tailoring. It's more like a blouse that looks like a jacket rather than an actual jacket. You might even call this type of outfit a two piece dress.

I had a hard time deciding on buttons for this suit. Metal buttons would be severely rationed during WWII. A lot of vintage suits from this era have self fabric buttons but I didn't want to go through the hassle of making them. Mine never turn out that great anyways. I didn't have any red buttons in my stash but I found these great white ones instead.

I really wanted to wear a brooch with this suit but I couldn't figure out which one to wear with this suit. I'm horrible with brooch placement. Plus we were running late so I just grabbed these great crochet gloves.

And add a great hat for a great outfit! This is one of my favorite hats. The flowers are so cute! It looks great with pin curled hair but I also like how it looks with my bob.

This outfit made me remember what I really love about 40s fashion. The classic, tailored shape is fabulous and chic but also so practical. Plus, I finally have a 40s suit! Oh, the mixing and matching possibilities!

To round out the outfit, it's my Remix shoes! They don't necessarily match but they go. And why not wear fabulous shoes!

Do you have a vintage suit?

HSM January: Foundations

This year's Historical Sew Monthly started out with the Foundation Challenge. So for my foundation, I decided to make an Italian Chemise. To me, a foundation is the thing you build your entire outfit upon. Mess it up, and nothing else will work correctly. The Chemise (or camicia if you are Italian) is the layer closest to the skin that not only keeps your pretty garments free of body grossness but also is a comfortable, breathable layer. Unfortunately, it's one of those things the film industry has decided are mostly unnecessary!

The Challenge: #1: Foundations
Fabric: 3.5 ys Linen ($11/yd)
Pattern: I used this great tutorial by Jen of Festive Attyre.
Year: Renaissance-ish (1500s)
Notions: thread
How historically accurate is it? It's mostly machine sewn and I surged my seams but the overall shape is correct. And it's yummy linen!
Hours to complete: 4-5
First worn: not yet. This linen is quite fine so I don't feel comfortable modeling it for you!
Total cost: ~$38

It's got this great cartridge pleating detail at the neckline. And it's super comfy to wear!

While we're at it, I decided to photography the corset I made for the 2014 #20: Alternative Universe Challenge but never photographed.

It's made of one layer of coutile and bound with store bought bias tape.

I hand sewed the eyelets but the rest of it is sewn by machine. Coutile is hard to sew by hand!

The seams are all finished nicely for maximum comfort.

I started with the pattern for my kirtle bodice and shortened it. Then I tweaked the fit until I got the shape I wanted. To draft your own kirtle bodice, go to elizabethancostume.net for a drafting guide.

And now that I have the corset and chemise done, it's time to get started on the dress!!!