Italian for Summer

This weekend was our monthly Adrian Empire event. The forecast was hot and humid with a good chance of rain so I dressed accordingly.

I decided to Italian-ify another of my English gowns. I've really been loving Italian garb, especially for this climate. My linen camica is just a dream to wear! The breeze goes right through it, leaving me nice and cool.

Not to mention that I find Italian looks effortlessly elegant while the English tend to look more prim and proper. I'm not sure why but it may have something to do with the lovely hair dos. Mine is still too short to do anything fancy but a snood and a hair piece make for a passable style.

And Italian jewelry is so pretty! I couldn't help but bling myself out a bit even though I was going for a more lower class look. Period appropriate looking jewelry makes my heart go pitter patter so I'm always on the look out for new pieces.

Often when I'm in costume, people ask if it's comfortable to wear. And I tell them that it depends. If your clothing is made to fit you and is functional, it's quite comfortable. If it's ill fitting and poorly made, it will be terribly uncomfortable! This dress had a boning pop out the top of it's casing and was poking me in the arm pit the last time I wore it and it was painful! Thankfully, it was an easy fix and this dress is back to being super comfy.

It's important to remember when doing historical costuming that ready to wear is quite a new concept! Clothing would be made to fit you or you'd remake a handme down to fit you. Most ladies would know how to sew or could afford to pay someone to tailor it to their bodies. Unfortunately, we are so used to ready to wear that many purchase ready to wear garb and end up with uncomfortable things! If you've ever heard some one complain about uncomfortable corsets, I can almost guarantee they bought ready to wear or did something silly like lace it way too tight on the first go.

This dress has 6 steel bones and fits like a firm hug. It supports and shapes me while still allowing me to do many everyday activities with ease. I won't be doing any yoga in this dress but that's ok.

You might think I'd rid my costuming closet of wool now that I'm in Florida but I'm actually wearing too bits of wool here. The soccia or pocket is made of wool and adds no warmth to the outfit. My apron is also wool. Since wool is water resistant and smolders instead of bursting into flame like linen, it's great for aprons.

So while I don't plan on making any wool dresses in the near future, I do enjoy having some wool accessories. To combat the Florida summers, it's linen all the way! While some people choose cotton due to budgetary restrictions, linen is cooler, more durable and period accurate to boot.

Personally, I'd rather wait until I could afford linen to make a new dress than to cut corners on fabric content and make more dresses. Summer is just too hot for polyester!! (Except for whatever my faux hair is made of. I'll keep my hair piece.)

 So I probably won't be making as much garb this year but I am making a new Italian Renaissance gown so be sure to check out my IRCC6 posts to see how it's coming along!

Historical Sew Monthly #3: Protection

So I went on my very first costuming camping trip! It was definitely a kiddy pool level event since it was about 20 minutes from our home (which was great because Rachel bird was sick and needed injections twice a day) and we used modern camping stuff. But there was costuming!

I decided to rock an Italian look for Saturday. This decision was mostly so I could wear my only historical make of 2015-an Italian chemise (or camica as they would have called it). And I whipped up a quick project just for camping that just so happened to fit in with this month's Historical Sew Monthly challenge!

The challenge was "protection" and I made one of the most basic types of protection items-an apron. Way to be boring, I know. But I did want a really functioning apron and not just a pretty Sunday best apron with all of the camping and nature and stuff. (Yeah... see my Great Outdoors entry)

So I scrounged up about a yard of blue wool and quickly hand sewed this little apron right before the event. Wool is a great choice for an apron because it has a bit of a water repelling quality (great for spills) and will smolder and put itself out if caught on fire rather than just burning like linen (although we didn't actually cook anything over a fire).

The Challenge: Protection
Fabric: about a yard of blue wool left over from another project. I think this was one that I got on the cheap so $6ish
Pattern: it's a rectangle gathered to a rectangle
Year: mid to late 1500s (although it could be worn in a lot of periods)
Notions: thread
How historically accurate is it? I have to admit that I didn't do a lot of research on pattern here but it does look like the pictures from the period. Wool is a great fabric for a working apron and dark colors are great for hiding stains. 
Hours to complete: 4ish
First worn: Adrian Empire camping trip and colleguim
Total cost: $6

 I rocked my American Duchess Stratfords. Yet again, they performed marvelously proving themselves to be not just another pretty pair of shoes but quite well suited for actually wearing and trudging through nature.

I also got the opportunity to wear my pocket on the outside of my gown since it is Italian too! So so handy! Usually, I hide it between my petticoat and gown for English looks since it's so handy to have.

My hair is most assuredly NOT long enough to do Italian looks but a hair piece and a snood do wonders for making a period appropriate looking (even if not quite accurate) hair do. Especially since the Florida sun has lightened my hair enough to match my hair piece.

The event itself was quite fun. There were classes all day Saturday so I got to learn a lot of cool stuff. There was also combat and an arts competition. I'm very excited to get to do arts competitions and show off all of my pretties.

 Plus some of the ladies are trying to organize a sewing night so that will be so fun! Yay for hanging out with other nerds!

Overall, we had a very fun time and I can't wait for the next event!

Brevard County Renaissance Festival

I was so excited when I learned that a new Renaissance Festival was starting in Brevard County! I really miss the Ohio Renaissance Festival and getting to do Renaissance costuming!! So the hubby and headed out for opening day this weekend.

I decided to wear my grey wool gown since we've been having a bit of a cool spell. It was great in the morning but the day heated up more than I expected and I ended up being warm for most of the day. Seriously, the only time I get excited about cold weather is for costuming.

Will opted to wear his monk costume for the event. He's lost quite a bit if weight this past year and both of his kilts are too big. I haven't quite figured out how to take them in with all of the loops and buckles and such.

I wasn't sure what period of the Renaissance the faire was going to aim for since their website mentioned William the Conqueror, Queen Elizabeth I, the Canterbury Tales and a Knight's Tale all on the same page. Turns out it was definitely on the earlier end of things with Richard the Lionheart and Prince John and all that. (I'm thinking 12th century.)

Anyways, I decided to go for poshly middle class Elizabethan but with no sleeves. (I knew it wasn't going to be that cold!). I added in my bum roll and my nicest shirt and apron. Too bad I never finished my blackwork caul! That would have been fabulous.

Loads of people too photos of us and we did get mistaken for staff but I take that as a compliment! They did a super awesome job for this being the first time running the fair in their first year. It takes a lot of time to build up a fair to the quality of what we're used to from Ohio.

The weather the day we went was fabulous but it had been raining a lot the few days prior so it was quite muddy!!! I decided to go ahead and wear my American Duchess Stratfords. I was very impressed with how well they handled the muddy conditions. I had issues in Ohio with all of the gravel at the fair eating up the soles but they handled the mud beautifully. They needed a bit of tlc when I got home but now they are back looking good as new.

There were a lot of cool shows including the Flight of the Raptor who flew falcons and hawks for us. It was so amazing to see these beautiful birds in flight. We heard several awesome Scottish and Irish bands with bagpipes and drums. There was no SCA presence but another Renaissance/Medieval group called the Adrian Empire was there and we got to see some skilled artisans and combatants. I love meeting more nerd people.

 We had a lot of fun and can't wait to see what they roll out in 2017. (They are open this weekend as well but it looks like we probably won't be making it out again.) Plus I have a whole year to work on an older period costume so I won't be to "modern"! I love playing with new periods.

Huzzah for the Brevard County Renaissance Festival!

HSM January: Foundations

This year's Historical Sew Monthly started out with the Foundation Challenge. So for my foundation, I decided to make an Italian Chemise. To me, a foundation is the thing you build your entire outfit upon. Mess it up, and nothing else will work correctly. The Chemise (or camicia if you are Italian) is the layer closest to the skin that not only keeps your pretty garments free of body grossness but also is a comfortable, breathable layer. Unfortunately, it's one of those things the film industry has decided are mostly unnecessary!

The Challenge: #1: Foundations
Fabric: 3.5 ys Linen ($11/yd)
Pattern: I used this great tutorial by Jen of Festive Attyre.
Year: Renaissance-ish (1500s)
Notions: thread
How historically accurate is it? It's mostly machine sewn and I surged my seams but the overall shape is correct. And it's yummy linen!
Hours to complete: 4-5
First worn: not yet. This linen is quite fine so I don't feel comfortable modeling it for you!
Total cost: ~$38

It's got this great cartridge pleating detail at the neckline. And it's super comfy to wear!

While we're at it, I decided to photography the corset I made for the 2014 #20: Alternative Universe Challenge but never photographed.

It's made of one layer of coutile and bound with store bought bias tape.

I hand sewed the eyelets but the rest of it is sewn by machine. Coutile is hard to sew by hand!

The seams are all finished nicely for maximum comfort.

I started with the pattern for my kirtle bodice and shortened it. Then I tweaked the fit until I got the shape I wanted. To draft your own kirtle bodice, go to elizabethancostume.net for a drafting guide.

And now that I have the corset and chemise done, it's time to get started on the dress!!!

Planning for Camping

I've been thinking a lot about what I want to focus on for Historical Sew (Fortnightly) Monthly this year. It doesn't look like I'll be making it to Costume College this year but I am hoping to be more involved in SCA so pre-1600 is where I'll be doing most often. My big project for the year is going to be the Borgia dress. I've got the fabric for it already but I still need to buy trim. That plus feeling a bit nervous about cutting into my silk means I'll probably be pushing that off to later in the year and working on it on and off.

I do really want to try and do all of the challenges this year since there are half as many and I've made at least half in the previous years. So I had to do some brain storming to plan out the year. One thing I think that I want to do is attend an SCA camping event. I'm not huge on camping but I love the idea of an extended SCA event. Plus I love the fact that many of my lower class costumes feel more like clothes than costumes. I'd love to get away with wearing them on a regular basis in real life.

So what do you need to in your kit for camping?

Shifts, shifts, shifts! Preferably one per day but less if there is access to washing facilities. I'm not planning on anything as intense as Pennsic so I think my four shifts are a great start in this direction.

Moving outward, petticoats are next. I only have one but a spare would be nice! I could probably whip one up easily for a challenge.

Kirtles are the main piece of an outfit for 16th century Elizabethan peasant. I have three although one is technically a bodied petticoat so a new kirtle is not a priority althought I really do like them. Depending on the location and time of year, my wool kirtle will not be too useful.

I've got a nice set of accessories-coif, apron, sleeves and pocket. But you can always need extras. For February, I'm planning on a wool apron since wool is great for working near fires. It doesn't burn like linen. Expect loads of these small projects this year. They are easy and budget friendly plus I'll have time to handsew them!

I do have one nice pair of shoes but they are definitely not camping shoes! While I do want to learn how to make shoes one day, I'll probably be buying this year if new shoes are in my future.

Lastly, are layers for warmth. Florida is pretty warm but can get chilly in the evenings and mornings. I do have my English fitted gown, but I think that will be overkill for most of the year. I purchased fabric for a wool jacket to fill in this gap and if that goes well, I may make a linen one too.

And, if camping becomes a reality, I'll have to outfit my husband too!

Have you ever been to a costuming or re-enacting camping event? Any tips?

HSF 2014 Round Up

It's been a busy year on the Historical Sew Fortnightly costuming front as well. Since I didn't make it to Costume College this year, I focused most of my costuming on things I could wear to the Renaissance Festival. I also did a few vintage projects since the dates were extended to 1945.

The first big project for the year was to remake the bodice of my court gown to fit over a boned kirtle instead of a corset. I am super happy with the fit now! (HSF#1: Make Do and Mend)

I couldn't wait to make this Wearing History pattern when it came out! I made it in a dreamy rayon. (HSF#2: Innovations)

Another vintage rayon project, I made up a shirtwaist dress for the pink challenge. It was just in time for Valentine's Day too! (HSF#3: Pink)

I remade the bodice on this red kirtle although it was remade again later in the year. (HSF#5: Bodice)

I beaded the forepart of my Elizabethan court dress. Originally, I started it for challenge #1 but got side tracked so it was perfect for the UFO challenge. (HSF#8: UFO)

Not all of my projects were big fancy dresses. I made some underpinnings too. See this new shift and boned kirtle. (HSF#9: Black and White and HSF#12: Shape and Support)

I also finally made an apron for my Renaissance wardrobe! (HSF#13: Under $10)

 I also ventured into outerwear this year! I dreamed of making a fitted English gown for a long time and when I scored some wool yardage on the cheap, it was a match made in heaven. (HSF#15: The Great Outdoors)

Since I used my old petticoat to make the boned kirtle for Shape and Support, I needed another one. (HSF#17: Yellow)

And a quick easy project to finish out the year-a 1930s plaid skirt. (HSF#21: Re-do)

And this 1930s dress which you all just saw. (HSF#23: Modern History)

There is also a project that never made it to the blog-a corset for my Borgia dress project that I'll be working on in 2015 (HSF#20: Alternate Universe). Hopefully, it'll both end up on the blog in January so you can see them! So that's a total of 13 challenges out of 24! My goal was at least half so I did good. Next year, the HSF will be monthly instead of twice a month so maybe I'll make all of the challenges! I've already got my supplies for the January challenge and hopefully the sewing room will be ready soon!